The Singular, Creative Imagination of Line Vautrin

Patrick Mauri├Ęs, Christie's, December 8, 2015

 

Louisa Guinness on the chic appeal of Line Vautrin

 

I first discovered Line Vautrin while in Paris. I always thought only very chic Parisian ladies wore the jewellery, and I could never be one of them. After many years, though, I have become part of that chic, understated club that recognises each other’s jewellery. It is rather like being part of the ‘Calder jewellery’ club that began in the 1940s. People look at your jewellery, give a knowing look and say nothing. I like that.

 

I love the talosel pieces and like to layer them. I wear them with a long gold necklace and something very modern. I like the contrast of materials. Talosel is very light and therefore comfortable to wear. I also like the colours and reflections you get from the little pieces of mirror fragments.

 

I’ve always been drawn to the original way of ‘hanging’ the pieces. Line Vautrin specialised in the non conventional. The ‘Grenouilles’ brooch, above, can be worn in so many ways. There are two ends to it. It can be worn across the lapel or hanging down, over the shoulder or simply bunched up into a smaller work. I like the movement offered by the use of a chain in a brooch. There are pins on both ends, so really, you are free to create your own sculpture on your clothing.

 

These geometric earrings in this group are super modern — they even go ‘up’ the ear. Light and colourful, they would go with many things, including a nice simple ring. The star earrings and large disc earrings, on the other hand, sit well with a long, elaborate necklace.

 

This gilt-bronze necklace is very typical of the work of Line Vautrin. Featuring hanging and articulated ends, suspended on a piece of chainmail, the piece can be worn by a man over his shoulder on a jacket or by a lady — with the chainmail to the front and the details hanging down the back.

 

Even though these pieces are all precious and gorgeous, I feel I can wear them freely on the street. The mirrored discs may glint in the light but not like a diamond. The secret club can walk the streets.

 

Louisa Guinness Gallery works with today's leading sculptors and painters to create jewellery as well as collecting and dealing in works by master artists